Peaceful west Berkshire walk, 6.6 miles

Lovely solo country walk today. I walked westwards from Combe Gibbet as far as Ham Hill, then back via the hamlets of Buttermere and Combe. The gibbet is on a long chalk ridge that crosses Berkshire’s south-west corner. Nearby Walbury Hill is the start of two long-distance footpaths: the Test Way, which some of my route used, and the Wayfarer’s Walk.

I parked in the car park near Combe Gibbet and set out along the byway that runs along the top of the chalk escarpment. Given the pesky open-to-all-traffic nature of byways, the ground had formed deep ruts that had flooded in the recent rain, making progress challenging in parts.

View north from Gallows Down. Mist clearing

Setting out westwards from Combe Gibbet

The current gibbet on Gallows Down is a replica, the latest of several. The original was only ever used once, to hang two lovers who murdered the male party's wife and son. Due to wrestling with the flooded path, I managed not to spot Wigmoreash Pond, but it’s apparently the place where the victims of the gibbet murderers were found.

After a couple of miles I turned off the byway to take a path leading south to Buttermere. The little church at Buttermere is a tiny, peaceful place. I’ve no idea whether services are still held there. I sat on a bench in the churchyard and had a cup of tea and a cookie.

Church of St James, Buttermere

Continuing beyond the church, the road becomes a track leading through Buttermere Bottom. Signs here announce that you’re walking on the Buttermere Estate, and would you please keep to the path.

The southern end of the path through Buttermere Bottom joins the Test Way (and leaves the estate at this point). I turned left and went up a bit of a hill, before turning right onto a bridleway going initially through woodland and then across Wadsmere Down.

Scenery in Buttermere Bottom

Bridleway across Wadsmere Down

The bridleway joins a byway, which I followed downhill past Combe's 12th century church and the entrance to Combe Manor. I followed the road that leads back uphill to the car park.

St Swithun's, Combe

Road leading back up the hill

Back at the car, I had a picnic of two hard-boiled eggs and some leftover pigs in blankets that I'd cooked the day before. So sort of like a cold cooked breakfast. Very nice too.

My route shown in red below, with start and end point at the car park near Combe Gibbet: