Emma's Blog: Holiday #2 in 2021: Westward Ho!

1-8 November 2021

Where we stayed

Beach House, on the edge of Westward Ho! Booked through Original Cottages.

This trip was a last-minute whim to escape to the coast – we booked it less than two weeks before the start of the holiday and hence got a bit of money off. The property was much larger than Ruth and I strictly needed – three bedrooms, three bathrooms – but we enjoyed luxuriating for the week in all the unnecessary space. The house is on a newish-looking development next to the Royal North Devon Golf Club.

Westward Ho! was a purpose-built resort village, named after the novel of the same name by Charles Kingsley, which seems an odd way of doing things. Kingsley was from nearby Bideford, which we visited during our stay. WH! is pleasant enough though lacks much olde-worlde charm, if that’s your thing. It has a big sandy beach that forms one of a line of them on the north Devon coast – Saunton Sands is to the north, the other side of the Torridge estuary, and Woolacombe further north again beyond Baggy Point.

We did once take a family holiday at Instow, the other side of the river from Appledore, but it’s a holiday I remember very little about and we don’t seem to have much in the way of family photographs. The cottage was afflicted with damp and Mum’s chief memory seems to have been attempting to get Hannah some emergency asthma medication. Hannah reminded me that I had spent much of the week revising for my Chemistry O-level, perhaps explaining why I don’t remember much else about it.

We spent quite a bit of time on the first evening figuring out the ridiculously high-tech cooker, featuring this by way of an extractor. V. sleek but not hugely obvious.

First full day: walk to Appledore via Northam Burrows

We walked from our holiday home to the village of Appledore via Northam Burrows, an area of dunes and saltmarshes that’s home to the course of the Royal North Devon Golf Club (which is, according to Wikipedia, the oldest golf club in England). It was the first time I've seen sheep grazing on a golf course; Ray remembers playing there once and having to clear sheep crap out of the way so that they could use the green to putt.

Setting out across Northam Burrows

Beach from Northam Burrows

This was the only day of the holiday when we had much rain. The golfers were clearly a hardy breed as there were still plenty of them out.

Rain ...

We had a brief walk around the village of Appledore before seeking lunch at The Seagate.

Street in Appledore

We made a vague attempt at locating the pub where Dad had told us he once stayed with his parents as a young boy, 64 years previously, but as he couldn’t remember the name of it, and we had no idea whether it was still there in any case, this was a bit of a doomed endeavour. There were several pubs in the village (and presumably more in times past) – here I am standing outside one called The Champ – which might have been the one; who knows.

I have long-ago family connections with this area on Mum’s side. Auntie Anne sent me this interesting snip that includes a studio photograph from 1844. Susannah Clibbett (the seated woman in the picture) was one of the Appledore Clibbetts, a family of shipbuilders. (Mum says that she was named after Susannah - loosely, as Mum’s name is the shorter form Susan.) Anne writes that Susannah married a Captain George Hicks, a mariner from Cornwall, and that the family later moved to Calstock in Cornwall.

The little girl in the picture was Mum and Anne’s great-grandmother Blanche Ellery Hicks. Blanche later married a Cornish man, Richard Martyn, and they moved to south Wales, where Anne and Mum were later born.

Route of the walk below: 4.7 miles. We had to walk back as well, but took a shorter route back along roads.

Second full day: walk around Westward Ho!

We had a stroll along the beach.

We passed a swimming pool set into the rocks. We did see some people swimming in it over the course of the week.

We passed Seafield House, a large derelict Victorian house occupying a prominent position on one end of the front. Someone has clearly had some fun with it as there were skeletons etc hanging in the windows.

We identified part of the route of the Bideford, Westward Ho! and Appledore Railway, which seems to have been open for a total of less than twenty years in the early twentieth century. This stretch is now part of the South West Coast Path.

Looking back along the coast path

A while further on we turned away from the coast path and walked inland in order to make it a circular route. Had to stop and take a photo of these old gates. The location given by Google Maps suggests they led to a house that no longer stands.

The return route took us along Bay View Road, set high above the village and featuring some large houses. This was a total route of 7.7 miles.

Third full day: Bideford

We drove into Bideford and had a walk around.

The Torridge estuary at Bideford

We crossed over the bridge and walked a short way along the route of the old Bideford to Barnstaple railway line, noting the platforms of the former station.

We walked up to Chudleigh Fort and then back down and over the bridge back into the main bit of the town. We had lunch at the Pannier Pantry.

Chudleigh Fort

Our lunch spot

After lunch we visited the Burton at Bideford gallery where there was an exhibition of Devon photography by James Ravilious. I'd heard of the painter Eric Ravilious (his father) but hadn't heard of James. They were really interesting photos of rural life there in the 1970s/80s.

The exhibition

The Burton at Bideford gallery and museum

Fourth full day: walk from Saunton Sands to Croyde

We drove to Saunton Sands and parked in the expensive but thankfully fairly empty car park (pondered again how this area must be hell in the holiday season). We had a cup of tea on the beach and then followed the South West Coast Path towards Croyde.

Looking down Saunton Sands from the north

The path runs parallel with and just above Croyde Road until it descends to the road near Chesil Cliff House, an OTT vanity project featured on a Grand Designs episode in 2019. At the time we walked past it it still looked unfinished but was on the market with Knight Frank for £10 million earlier this year.

Chesil Cliff House

Looking towards Lundy Island

The beach at Croyde

Just past Chesil Cliff House there’s a path leading down towards the rocky coastline, which we took and made our way around to the beach at Croyde. We had a picnic on the sand here before having a bit of a walk around Croyde and then heading back.

Final full day: local bumble and lunch

We walked into Northam to have a look at the Church of St Margaret. I believe some ancestors of mine were married in this church, but have forgotten which ones – quite possibly George and Susannah mentioned in the snip above.

Church of St Margaret of Antioch, Northam

From Northam we walked back into Westward Ho! and had lunch at The Pier House.

My lunch

Westward Ho!

Verdict

It was an enjoyable week and an interesting area; I'd go again. Our holiday house was lovely though aspects of it seemed a bit impractical for a holiday let - in addition to the cooker already mentioned, the kitchen had gorgeous (Corian?) white worktops that were extremely easy to stain, as Ruth did by leaving used teaspoons on the draining area. We had a bit of a panic that we had indelibly stained it and were going to be charged for an entire replacement worktop. A bit of Googling suggested that bicarbonate of soda might do the trick - unsurprisingly, we hadn't brought any with us, but located some in the nearby Tesco and Ruth spread it on and we left it overnight. In the morning, the tea stains looked even darker brown than they had previously. So boo to bicarb. In the end we managed to scrub the tea stains off with some innocuous product like washing up liquid.