Recollections of last year's Lakes trip, before this year's Lakes trip

25 March to 1 April 2023

Trip with Ray to the Lakes in 2023.

Where we stayed

Loughrigg Brow, a large 19th-century house on Under Loughrigg, a narrow winding road that runs alongside the river Rothay to the north of Ambleside. We stayed in the Windermere Suite, one of the second floor flats. The whole house is divided into flats, a number of which are probably holiday rentals. The house contains a lift, for use by the flat owners only. There was a note in the flat about the lift, to the effect that it's proved a complete money pit, breaks down constantly and that basically no one should use it.

We booked the property through Heart of the Lakes, which appears now to be trading as Lakelovers, with whom we have booked our upcoming stay in Ambleside starting tomorrow.

It was a very pleasant flat with a lovely sitting room. The only downside of the flat was the pervasive smell of drains in the ensuite to the twin bedroom, which persisted for the whole week despite my repeatedly chucking boiling water down the bathroom sink as per the instructions in the flat. I had generously persuaded Ray to have the king size bedroom, mainly because the ensuite to that had a bath and he doesn’t have a bath on his boat, and I know he enjoys a bath.

It was an excellent location – Ambleside was a pleasant walk down through the grounds and across Rothay Park; the only downside was the steep walk back up the drive on the way back.

Anticipation!

Loughrigg Brow

First evening

On arrival, we had a poke about the grounds and initially noted that some tree-felling appeared to have been done, before it dawned on us that an awful lot of tree-felling had been done and that the trees appeared to be lying in a more haphazard manner than might be expected had they been deliberately felled. On returning to the flat, I discovered a handwritten note from the owners that we hadn’t spotted initially, noting that the grounds had been devastated by Storm Arwen in late 2021. I didn’t remember the online entry for the property pointing this out – not saying it would necessarily have put me off booking but I had noted the 10 acres of grounds as a plus point, and in practice strolls around the grounds were restricted by the need to constantly shimmy over large tree trunks.

We also lugged our Sainsburys delivery up two flights of stairs. Not to be recommended.

The grounds

Fallen trees

We did walks on all the days except Day 3, which was very wet – though we also got pretty soaked on Day 4. At this time I was still using MapMyWalk to track walks – have now switched to using Strava via my Garmin Forerunner – and couldn’t figure out how to get MMW not to put the annoying mile markers on the map, and also never figured out why it would show part of the route in black. I’ve shared the stats from MMW at the top of each day’s entry.

Day 1: Rothay Circuit out of Buttle

A lovely circuit of Rydal Water and Grasmere. Route taken from Paul Buttle’s 15 Walks from Ambleside and Grasmere, which we found in the flat.

Setting off on the path that leads to Rydal Hall

Rydal Water from the Coffin Route

Grasmere from our lunch viewpoint

The route

Day 2: Wansfell Pike and Troutbeck

This was the sunniest day of the week. The ascent of Wansfell Pike from Ambleside is quite steep but not scrambly, so I was determined to nail it in an assertive fashion.

On the way up. In typical fashion, Ray had got chatting to someone

Me atop Wansfell Pike

Wainwright does point out that the ‘rocky bluff’ of Wansfell Pike is not actually the true summit of Wansfell. The true summit is a bit of an extra walk away to the NE. At 1597 to W. Pike’s 1581, we weren’t sufficiently bothered about the extra sixteen feet of height to bother walking over to it; plus it looked a bit underwhelming, whereas the views from the Pike are great. (Wainwright does indeed note that the lower Wansfell Pike is a better viewpoint.)

After reaching the summit of Wansfell, we descended its other side down into Troutbeck, where I think we sat on a bench for a bit having something from a café there.

Roadside well in Troutbeck

We walked back from Troutbeck to Ambleside via Robin Lane and later Skelghyll Woods.

Following the path to High Skelghyll Farm

Mossy wall in Skelghyll Woods

These gates again. They intrigue me. Can't find any existing house called Skelgarth.

Back in Ambleside we went for a cream tea at the Apple Pie Café.

Our route:

Day 3: Stock Ghyll Force and Ambleside

It was raining and looked set in for the day. We walked up to Stock Ghyll Force, a waterfall just up behind Ambleside, and then had lunch in a large pub near the main car park. I forget its name but I daresay we might go there again on the upcoming trip.

Looking a bit damp

Rain drove us inside

Day 4: bus to Coniston and circular walk

Extremely wet walk, we got lost at one point and almost missed the bus back due to waiting on the wrong side of the road.

Sticking in a purist fashion to our resolve not to drive in the Lakes once we were there, we took the Stagecoach 505 bus service that goes from the Ambleside bus interchange to the Crown at Coniston. I can’t remember how long the journey took, probably 40 minutes or so what with that stopping thing that buses do.

The Crown at Coniston

As the photos suggest, this was a grey day. On arrival we headed for the lake shore and walked along the lake southwards for a bit, passing Torver jetty where I think we stopped for a snack. We then headed inland across Torver Common to the road. Close to the road we passed the old trackbed of the Coniston Railway, which excited Ray mightily.

Coniston shore

Torver jetty

The old railway trackbed

We probably would have been better to follow the ‘Coniston Avoiding Road’ path back to Coniston village, but instead, to make it a longer walk, we crossed the road and headed up a footpath leading on to higher ground. This involved some very muddy paths and generally boggy ground. We ate our picnic near Torver Beck, which was looking pretty lively, and set out to walk back in the direction of Coniston – which we did eventually manage to do, but had quite a bit of difficulty discerning anything that could be called a path. Just as I was deciding I didn't relish the thought of being out there after dark, Ray decided on a direction and tramped off determinedly, and it did turn out to be the one we needed as we eventually did join a more discernible path.

Muddy path

Torver Beck

Bit lost at this point

Shortly after this wet wall picture, I seem to remember my phone decided it was too wet to continue, hence no further pictures. That probably also explains the straight section on the route map.

The horrible "stile"

We did, thankfully manage to catch the bus back to Ambleside. Our route below:

Day 5: Loughrigg Fell including summit of Loughrigg

This was a walk out of the useful little ‘Low Fells’ book that I’d purchased on our previous Lakes visit in 2020 and, annoyingly, can't now find - reaching the conclusion that I must have left it at Loughrigg Brow. This walk started by walking north along Under Loughrigg towards the A591, then taking the path that leads alongside Rydal Water and ascends towards Loughrigg Terrace. From Loughrigg Terrace you ascend onto the top of the fell.

Walking up Under Loughrigg towards Pelter Bridge

Grasmere from Loughrigg Terrace

A Wainwright book in the flat referred to Loughrigg Fell as “a sprawling, ill-shaped wedge” and as “having a bulk out of all proportion to its modest altitude”. It’s enough to give it body dysmorphia. I wouldn’t quite agree that “no ascent” is involved, but I agree it’s not much in the grand scheme of things. In fairness, Wainwright does concede further down the page that “Everybody likes Loughrigg”.

Heading up onto Loughrigg

The summit

On top of the fell

I can’t remember too much about the latter stages of this walk – the loop in the bottom right of the map below is reminding me that I think we went slightly off route at one point, before getting back on track, no doubt helped by this helpful sign in the wall at one point.

Old golf course possibly around here somewhere

On the way back down we passed a posh-looking house called Pine Rigg. Interestingly, this seems to have been built on the site of a former golf clubhouse.

Wainwright's map showing the road down off Loughrigg

Coming down the lane back to Loughrigg Brow (centre of picture)

Our route:

Day 6: bus to Elterwater and walk back

We took a bus to the village of Elterwater and walked past the lake and along the river Brathay to Skelwith Bridge. From there we followed a path up through a lodge park up onto Loughrigg Fell again and ate lunch by Loughrigg Tarn. Then across the fell and back to Ambleside. Ray had a bit more of a hunt around for the old golf course.

River Brathay above Skelwith Force

Ray down on the viewing platform at Skelwith Force

Loughrigg Tarn

Following a bridleway across Loughrigg Fell

Maybe a tee for the old golf course?

Route of the walk:

We went out in the evening for dinner at the Jintana Thai restaurant in Ambleside.

Last night dinner

Postscript

This was a lovely week. All the days except the Wansfell day were varying shades of grey and dampness, but it didn’t dampen my enjoyment much. The pic below was taken from the sitting room of the Windermere Suite. We had another quick circuit of the grounds and inspection of the tree carnage before setting off home.

Ambleside with Wansfell behind